In the main square in Turin, Italy, right in the middle of city center, there are two enormous buildings. First, we have the Palazzo Reale, or the royal palace of Turin, which is the most important residence of the Savoia family. When you’re standing in the center of the fountains and looking straight ahead at the green gates, that’s what you’ll see. That’s an amazing tour and a good use of two euros if you’re under 26, but today we’re talking about the building on the right, Palazzo Madama. In this article, I’ll tell you everything you need to know before you go, from logistics to history to food for thought.
I have the basic information listed first, then some more in-depth information below if you’d like to have a clearer picture of what a visit looks like.
What is Palazzo Madama? What’s included in the ticket?
Palazzo Madama is essentially the history of Italy in one building. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has lived many lives. In the 1st century BC, the site housed a gate to the ancient Roman city. Later, in the medieval period, the Savoia-Acaja family built (and rebuilt) a castle. In the 1600s, it became the personal residence of Cristina Maria (or Christine-Marie) of France, the regent of Duke Carlo Emanuele II (of the Savoia family). She, along with Maria Giovanna Battista, a later regent, did much work during the 1600s and 1700s to restore and glamorize the building. After their tenures, the building became the home of the senate, and later the art museum that it is today.
The museum has four floors:
- Floor -1: Gardens, the treasury tower, medieval artifacts, some ceramics
- Floor 0: Gothic and Renaissance artwork, woodwork, some ceramics, a view of Roman ruins
- Floor 1: Baroque art, gorgeous rooms, an exhibit hall, cafe, and bathroom
- Floor 2: Decorative arts like fabric and ceramics
- Floor 3: Panoramic view of the city from the tower
There is an elevator available.
When I went, there was also access to the exhibit Change! Ieri, oggi, e domani, il Po, which explored the river’s changing presence through fossils, maps, and art.
As aforementioned, the building itself spans about 2000 years, and the artwork and other objects displayed reflect this. The building hosts everything from Roman ruins to medieval coins to Renaissance paintings to porcelain from the 1700s to artwork from recent years. There are several artifacts that focus specifically on Turin and Piemonte over the years, which I appreciated. If you want a cultural and historical overview of the city, this is a great stop.
How much does Palazzo Madama cost?
At the time of this article (December 2024), it costs 10 euros for a regular ticket and eight euros for a reduced ticket. Reduced tickets are valid for people aged 19-25 or 65+, as well as group visits of 15-25 and Citysightseeing Turin customers. Under 18s, groups of university students who book ahead of time, and visitors with disabilities access for free. Holders of the abbonamento musei card also enter for free.
If you would like to see all the details on the official site, you can find that here.
What are the hours?
At the time of writing, the museum is open from Wednesday through Monday from 10-6. It is closed on Tuesdays. The ticket office closes one hour before the museum closes (so at 5:00 pm).
How long does it take to see?
It took me about an hour and a half, and I rushed through some parts. With that in mind, I would suggest setting aside about 1-2 hours, depending on how detail-oriented you are. The panoramic view certainly doesn’t take long, nor does the garden, but the first two floors took me a while to get through because there was so much to see.
Why should you consider going?
If you like art or want an introduction to art, specifically artists of the Piemonte region, this is a great stop to make. Palazzo Madama also is an amazing glimpse into the architecture typical of Turin. Juvarra, probably the biggest Baroque architect from the city, helped to design part of the building. It’s also interesting to see how all of the different uses, lives, and additions of the building work together.
With that being said, if history is your thing, this is a great (visual) location. There’s a little bit of everything, and I was impressed at how many purposes the building still serves. There are so many different collections inside a building that is a work of art itself! Although I have been acquainted with the city and the region for some time now, I still learned a lot about its development through many different mediums (ceramics, paintings, woodwork, architecture, science, etc.). The museum really brought Turin to life and honored its past.
My favorite part had to be the gardens. I’ve walked by this building a million times and never even realized that there was a garden at moat level. Being in the middle of the city, I often yearn for green spaces like this one. The museum does a wonderful job with the upkeep, and it was lovely walking around and looking at the plants and the sculptures, especially after several grey days.
Trivia about Palazzo Madama
Palazzo Madama was the residence of Cristina Maria/Christine-Marie of France, who was a fascinating character. I learned a bit about her life on a tour one time, and I thought of her as I visited the residence. According to many people, she loved her parties and had many lovers. She wasn’t the most loyal spouse, and people even questioned the parentage of her first daughter.
Beyond palace intrigue, encouraging the growth of culture and restoration of buildings, and introducing more French influence to Turin, Cristina Maria/Christine-Marie was a strong ruler in her own right. She became involved in (and won) a civil war against her brothers-in-law, coordinated with other foreign officials, and helped to manage the finances of the region. If you’d like to learn more about her, this video does a great job elaborating on her life.
The building is also one of the Residences of the Royal House of Savoy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Interestingly, the palace remains a hybrid of two unique periods: medieval in back, and Baroque in front. If you didn’t know any better, you’d think it was two completely different buildings.
Reflections + A Final Word
Palazzo Madama truly makes visitors think about the world around them and their role in it. It’s different to understate how surreal it is to walk through a Baroque hall, look down at Roman ruins under your feet, and then look out at the modern city from medieval towers. As you walk through the palace, you can’t help but imagine those who walked through it before you and what their lives were like. This is what I loved about literature and history, and it made the museum very effective. When you are able to place yourself into the vast expanse of time and visualize the change that one single location has undergone up until that moment, it is very powerful.
For me, the temporary exhibit on the Po and its changes truly brought the museum together. Turin is a city with which I am well-acquainted at this point. Through the maps, demonstrations, and artwork of the river and surrounding land over centuries, it put everything into perspective. Not only was it fascinating to see what familiar spots may have looked like centuries ago, but it was also reassuring (and intimidating) to be reminded that change is constant. It is overwhelming sometimes to look at how fast the world is changing and how little control we have. Seeing things like this gives a sense of relief. Maybe it doesn’t make it easier, but it does give perspective.
With all of that said, I highly recommend a visit to Palazzo Madama during your next trip (or study abroad) to Turin. Be sure to take in the view from the top!
